Three different jobs: bottle storage, keg storage and dispense
Bottled and canned beer only needs to be held cold and handed over. Kegged beer needs to be held cold and also kept cold all the way from the keg to the tap, because the dispense line is part of the cold chain. That is why a draught system is really a small refrigeration system, not just a fridge with a tap on top.
| Format | What it does | Typical setting |
|---|---|---|
| Bottle cooler / back-bar cooler | Holds bottles and cans at serving temperature | Bars, restaurants, hotel outlets |
| Kegerator / undercounter keg cooler | Holds one or a few kegs with the tap mounted on top | Small bars, cafés, short line runs |
| Keg cold room | Holds many kegs; beer is pushed to remote taps | High-volume pubs and microbreweries |
| Remote dispense with glycol or python | Keeps long beer lines cold from keg to tap | Bars where kegs are far from the counter |
The temperatures that matter
Industry draught guidance commonly recommends holding kegs at about 3 °C (38 °F) and keeping the beer close to that all the way to the tap. A rise of even a degree or two at the keg or in the line lets dissolved carbon dioxide break out, which shows up as foamy, flat pours. Bottled lager is usually served cold, in the +2 to +6 °C range, while many ales and craft styles are served a few degrees warmer to show their flavour.
Ask whether the cooler can hold a stable setpoint with a narrow swing. A cabinet that cycles widely around its setpoint may be fine for soft drinks but will cause foaming problems on draught.
Check your keg sizes and fittings before you order
Keg sizes vary between breweries and importers. The internal dimensions of a keg cooler, the door opening and the floor load all need to match the kegs you actually receive. Measure the height and diameter of the kegs your suppliers deliver, including the coupler fitted on top, and confirm the cabinet can take that number of kegs with doors closed.
The coupler type is set by the brewery, so confirm with your beer supplier what fittings they use. Many breweries supply or lend dispense equipment with their beer; check what they provide before you buy hardware that duplicates it.
Short runs versus long runs
If the taps sit directly on top of the keg cooler, the beer line is short and stays cold inside the cabinet. This is the simplest and most forgiving setup. If the kegs live in a back room and the taps are at the counter, the beer travels through a line that passes through warm walls and ceilings. That line has to be insulated and actively cooled, usually by a chilled glycol or water loop running alongside the beer lines in an insulated bundle.
In an Indian bar, where the ceiling void above the counter can be very hot in summer, an uncooled long run is a reliable way to get foam. Plan the route before the interiors are finished.
Heat, ventilation and power cuts
- Under-counter keg coolers built into joinery need front-breathing condensers or properly designed ventilation, just like back-bar units.
- Ask for the rated ambient temperature; bars without strong air conditioning can run well above 35 °C behind the counter.
- A full keg holds a lot of thermal mass, so a short power cut is rarely a problem if the door stays shut. A long outage on a hot day will warm the beer, and it will foam until it pulls back down.
- Fit a voltage stabiliser or ensure the unit has built-in protection if your supply sags in the evening peak.
- Keep CO2 cylinders upright, secured and away from heat sources; follow your gas supplier's handling guidance.
Plan for line cleaning from day one
Draught lines grow yeast and bacteria and collect beer stone over time. Dirty lines cause off-flavours and foaming that no cooler setting will fix. Regular line cleaning with the correct chemicals is part of running draught beer, so choose a layout where lines and couplers are easy to reach. Ask your beer supplier how often they recommend cleaning and whether they provide the service.
Questions to ask the supplier
- How many kegs of my size fit, with couplers fitted and doors closed?
- What setpoint range and temperature swing does the cabinet hold?
- Is the condenser front-breathing, and what clearances are needed?
- Can the tower or taps be cooled, or is the line short enough not to need it?
- Where is the service access, and can it be reached without moving the kegs out?
Frequently asked questions
- Why is my draught beer foaming even though the cooler is cold?
- The usual causes are a warm section of line between keg and tap, a warm tower, incorrect gas pressure or dirty lines. Check the beer temperature at the tap, not just the cabinet display.
- Can I store bottled beer and kegs in the same cooler?
- Yes, if the cabinet has the space and holds the colder temperature both need. Constant door openings for bottles will make the keg temperature less stable, so busy bars often separate them.
